Islands of inspiration

Explore the Outer Hebrides with me.

The “Homecoming”.

When I was a child, the Isle of Lewis was where I spent most of my school holidays. My aunt and uncle lived on a croft where my brother and I got to experience a different childhood to that which we were used to growing up. The air was a mix of sea salt and peat smoke, but to me, it was simply the smell of laughter, freedom, and adventure. My uncle is a native islander - a MacLeod, which meant we felt as if we got to know every inch of Lewis, and a fair bit of Harris too!

Somehow, 25 years had passed since my last proper trip. I had gone a couple of times with the children when they were wee along with their dad, but my aunt moved away and time moved on. It wasn’t until a few years ago, when I went back fleetingly for a family funeral, that I realised how much I had missed it! Sailing into Stornoway harbour felt like a homecoming, the Gaelic people and culture wrapped around me, making me feel as welcome as ever, like I belonged.

I was determined to go back for a proper trip, to explore all the old haunts and wallow in the beauty of it all. Although we were only there for a short week, that’s exactly what we did.

We stayed just outside Stornoway, close to where my aunt had lived on Point. On the first evening I just had to go for a walk along the back Braigh and feel the sand beneath my feet as the sun was beginning to set. It was such an incredible feeling for me, but both Ed and Halo who were completely new to the island loved it too.

Day 1: Ancient History on the west side of Lewis

In the morning we headed out to Callanish to visit the ancient standing stones. It's a sight that never ceases to take my breath away. There's a deep, silent energy here, a feeling that you're standing on ground that has held stories for thousands of years. Keeping with the ancient history we moved on to the Broch at Dun Carloway. Standing within the ancient walls, we could almost hear the echoes of the past. We found ourselves imagining what it was like to live in this wild, beautiful landscape so long ago, seeking shelter from the Atlantic winds.

Moving forward in history we visited the Black House village at Gearranan where we got to explore one of the preserved houses complete with loom shed for the old Harris Tweed loom. Some days there is a weaver there working the loom but we missed that, however it was clear to see the connection between the land, the sheep, the people and the cloth with the spinning wheel in the corner of the living room too.

It was a treat to find the Blue Pig Studio where Jane selss all her beautiful art work and treasures. We bought cards, an old glass bottle (which I have a thing for), and some sketchbooks. It’s such an inviting and inspiring space with glimpses into Jane’s studio - always such a treat to see where other artists work!

We continued on up the wild west coast, stopping at Dalmore (Dhail Mhor), one of my favourite beaches where the raw, untamed spirit of the island seems to come to life! The moment you step onto the sand here, you understand. The Atlantic doesn't just meet the shore; it crashes, surges, and breathes with an incredible, undeniable power. The turquoise of the water in these photos isn't an exaggeration – it's real, and it sparkles with a thousand different shades under the Hebridean sun, almost defying belief against the rugged backdrop of the ancient cliffs.

The Hebrides are famous for their ancient geology, home to some of the oldest rocks in Europe, and Dalmore offers a brilliant glimpse into that deep history.

As you look at the cliffs that cradle the beach, you can't help but notice the incredible patterns and folds in the stone. These aren't just ordinary rocks; they're the famous Lewisian Gneiss, incredibly ancient metamorphic rocks that have been shaped and folded over billions of years by immense geological forces. It’s mind-boggling to think about the sheer timescale involved!

Standing there, with the powerful ocean in front of us and these ancient, folded cliffs behind, you really get a sense of how everything on these islands is connected—from the enduring land to the timeless sea. It adds another layer of magic to an already breathtaking spot, making Dalmore not just beautiful, but a window into Earth's distant past.

Living my best life on Dhail Mhor

Our final stop on this whirlwind day took us to the very northern tip of the island, to the place where Lewis literally ends and the vast, open ocean begins: the Butt of Lewis.

Here, the landscape feels wild and elemental. The wind whips past you, and the sea below is a deep, churning blue. The cliffs are rugged and dramatic, home to thousands of nesting seabirds that fill the air with their cries. It’s a sensory overload, in the best possible way. And there, standing sentinel against the force of the North Atlantic, is the iconic lighthouse.

It’s a powerful feeling to stand at this final point of land, looking out over nothing but open sea all the way to the Arctic Circle. The Butt of Lewis is a place that reminds you of nature's raw power and of the incredible resilience required to live in such a beautiful, yet exposed, corner of the world. It was a perfect, exhilarating end to our first day of rediscovery.

Day 2: Textures and textiles in Stornoway.

After a day spent wallowing in ancient history and elemental landscapes, we decided to immerse ourselves in the the heart of the island’s modern-day culture with a trip to Stornoway. The weather had turned, and a classic Hebridean shower was a welcome excuse to spend some time indoors.

The mission: Harris Tweed. The famous cloth is more than just a textile here; it's a living part of the island’s soul. I was beyond excited to visit the different shops and the Harris Tweed Authority and spent ages simply looking at the incredible array of colours and patterns. I even bought something special to repair my childhood Rupert Bear (seen in the photos up top). I love seeing how the landscape we had been exploring is translated into the yarn and woven into these incredible rich fabrics. The cloth feels as much a part of the land as the rocks and the waves and I’m looking forward to seeing what I can make with all the beautiful pieces I bought. I’m fascinated by the history of the cloth too and treated myself to a couple of books which will allow me to explore what might be my favourite facbric in more detail.

I was really looking forward to visiting the An Lanntair arts centre, a brilliant hub of culture right on the waterfront. When I was up in 1993, An Lanntair was still in the old sandstone building where the Harris tweed Authority now has it’s home. It’s where my love and appreciation for the work of the sculptor George Wylie was ignited as I attended the opening of his exhibition, where he had incorporated Harris tweed within some of his work. the new modern building had a brilliant cafe, which was the perfect spot for coffee and cake as we wated for the torrential rain to pass. In the gallery, we found a beautiful exhibition -UAIM AN ÒR by Mairi Gillies. It was described as “an innovative sonic installation on the relationships between place, people, piping, and plants based on the multiple versions of the story Uamh an Òr (The Cave of Gold)”. With the rain thundering down outside, the Gaelic soundtrack, and mesmerising collection of layered, sculpted pieces and found objects, seemed to capture the very essence of the islands—the textures, the colours, and the raw beauty that you can find everywhere.

Stornoway itself boasts an array of sculptures and installations which I was really drawn to. The knitted texture on the herring girl’s jumper beside the sea, the basket of the peat carrier in the community garden - all stunning pieces of pubic art, which make me so happy to see.

The rain finally eased so we took a brief trip to another of my favourite beaches not far from Stornoway - Garry Sands. This is another wild place where the road simply ends, giving way to a landscape where the geology is truly mind-blowing. Here, the sea has spent millennia carving towering sea stacks and incredible caves into the ancient rock. My brother and I explored these when we were children (being more nimble than me, my brother climbed them too!) Entering them as an adult, I still felt that thrill of the danger - the possibility of being cut off by the tide - but also the wonder, the way the light plays on the water and changes as it sneaks in through the gaps in the rocks. The rich tapestry of layered sediments, seaweeds, barnacles and crustaceans makes this a truly elemental and unforgettable landscape.

Day 3: Splurging in Harris

The rain was lashing down, but we didn't let that stop us. We had already decided to drive south into the heart of Harris, with the low clouds clinging to the hills only adding to the dramatic atmosphere. Our first stop was a local gem: a 'Handmade in Harris' craft market in Tarbert. The community hall was a vibrant oasis of creativity, and I finally got to meet The Crafty Weaver—an artist I had followed on Instagram—and came away with some of her beautiful yarn.

From there, we travelled over to Leverburgh on a pilgrimage to A.S. Apothecary. I'd been dreaming of visiting since seeing it on "Designing the Hebrides" with Banjo (a bit of a theme, as you'll remember from my Mull post!). The shop was everything I hoped it would be—a beautiful haven of wild and natural beauty. I left with some Hydrating Isle Mist and Wild Beauty Balm, and of course, a new pair of wool socks for Ed. It seems he's building quite the collection on our travels!

We were ravenous after all that shopping, so we grabbed the last table at the brewery cafe, where the food was fantastic. We also experienced the famous "Cal Mac effect" as the entire cafe emptied out for the departing ferry to Skye and we ended up with the place to ourselves! Even with the weather, we couldn't resist a quick stop at the breathtaking Seilbost beach for a moment of quiet appreciation.

Day 4: Exploring in Uig

Day 4 started with a coffee and catch up with my uncle at An Taigh Ceilidh (the Gaelic Cafe). Ed did his best to order in Gaelic and we had a lovely blether with my uncle who I hadn’t seen in way too long!

After our Harris adventure the day before we knew we were staying in Lewis today, but we still covered loads of ground. Our first stop was over in the west as I wanted to revisit Bosta, another of my favourite beaches, on the island of Great Bernera. The last time I was there was a beautiful sunny day when I was 21 years old, however the weather was a bit soggier this time round.

Rosie at Bosta July 1994

Rosie at Bosta July 2025

It was still just as beautiful though, and incredibly peaceful with just a few other brave souls facing the weather. I think it’s the combination of the ancient geology of the rock formations, along with the delicate beauty of the machair flowers, all offset by the turquoise water that makes this place so special to me (and maybe even to the iron age people who settled here many moons ago).

From Great Bernera it’s not far to Uig which has the most spectacular stretch of sand! Those islanders from Lewis view this as the most spectacular beach on the islands, however Harris dwellers argue in favour of Luskentyre. Both are beautiful and again, the rain didn’t dampen our spirits as we walked across the expansive sands.

Day 5: Sunshine in Harris (finally!)

Our last full day dawned with a much more promising forecast, and we embraced the sunshine by heading straight back to Harris. The visibility was so much better than it had been on Friday, and it was a treat to discover new views of the Harris Hills we hadn’t seen before.

Luskentyre did not disappoint. Although the car park was heaving, the people soon dispersed across the vast, white sands. We even met a very chilled-out Highland Cow who seemed to be enjoying the sunshine as muh as we were. While Caitlyn went for a swim, Ed and I walked and paddled, simply soaking up the glorious day.

For lunch, we stopped at the delightful Bothy restaurant which was a real treat to refuel before the final leg of our adventure! We then retraced our earlier steps past Leverburgh, down to Rodel, and drove back up the east side of Harris. If you’ve ever driven this road you will understand the thrill of the single track and the stunning views, the seal spotting and the surprise coffee caravan, seemingly in the middle of nowhere! It was the perfect end to a brilliant trip.

When can I go back??